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There
is so much to see and do in North Clare that we couldn't
possibly list everything, but below are some suggestions.
All are within a one-hour drive of Fernhill Farmhouse.
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Capawalla Mountains
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The
Burren region of North Clare derives its name from the
Irish word Boireann, which means "rocky land",
the perfect name for an area of land that more resembles
a lunar surface than a place for exotic and rare plant
species.
The
Burren is approximately 100 square miles of fissure covered
limestone surface similar to what you will see at Doolin
Point. These fissures are commonly known as grykes and
often described as "lunar" in appearance.
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all appearances, the Burren is a barren and desolate place,
but in fact, the grykes are home to a number of plant species,
some rare and only found on the Burren like the Hoary Rock
Rose and Wild Orchid. You may also see some of the wildlife
that lives in the area as well, like the Irish Hare, Whooper
Swans and tiny rare butterflies. |
Limestone fissures
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Moving the herd
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Oliver
Cromwell's surveyor described the Burren as -
"a
savage land, yielding neither water enough to drown
a man, nor tree to hang him, nor soil enough to bury
him".
Little
did he know! The Burren also supports grazing sheep and
cattle.
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Tucked
neatly behind the Cliffs of Moher at the edge of the
Burren is a tiny village called Doolin. Made famous
by its traditional music, this village is the meeting
grounds for hundreds, if not thousands, who come to
learn to play traditional Irish instruments, learn to
sing and learn to speak Irish, as well as soak up traditional
Irish culture over a few pints in one of the traditional
pubs.
Some
of the famous landmarks include Gus O'Connor's Pub, the
Doolin
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Sunset in Doolin
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Music
Shop and Doonagore Castle. A particularly special place
is Doolin Point, which isn't so much a beach as it is
a miracle of Mother Nature.
Crossing
the little bridge at the Music Shop and following the
narrow road out to the point visitors can take the Aran
Island Ferry out to one of the Aran Islands in the summer
months. But this isn't the only feature. Here, giant limestone
slabs descend into the sea in giant steps.
It
took more than a few centuries to create this marvelous
ocean front where thick layers of weathered limestone
has evolved into a stair-like effect. Like steps made
for a giant, these layers stretch across the coastline,
disappearing into the frothy waves (photos above).
One
can see the immense size of these slabs immediately when
stood next to. So it's all the more amazing to see some
of these slab resting at odd angles, as if the waves just
tossed them up onto the shore.
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Cliffs of Moher
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The
Cliffs of Moher rise to the height of 200 meters (650
feet) and stretch over 8 kilometers (5 miles). Its sheer
rock face is lined with the mulit-colors of shale and
sandstone. The weathered surface provides shelter for
the thousands of Puffins, Guillemots and Kittiwakes that
nest there.
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On
the viewing platform there are telescopes that allow you
to see the birds as well as down the rocky face of
the cliffs. Just below this platform is a prominent sandstone
ledge that you can walk out onto, but be warned that there
is no protective barrier between you and going over the
side!
There
is a fort ruin on the southern end at Hag's Head. And O'Brien's
Tower is to the northern side of the Cliffs. This tower
dates back only to the Victorian era when it was built as
a tea room and an observation tower for the tourists of
the time. You can reach the tower to the north of the Visitors'
Center via a stairway that follows the contours of the hillside. |
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Doonagore
Castle overlooks Doolin Sound from a hillside over Doolin
Village. Little is known about this castle but it was
restored in recent times and remains a private residence.
Views
from the hillside and road surrounding the castle are
outstanding. On a clear day one can see all three of the
Aran Islands.
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Doonagore Castle
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Poulnabrone Dolmen
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The
Poulnabrone Dolmen is a portal tomb which dates back to
about 2500 BC. It is one of only four known in Clare,
one of only two in the Burren, and the best preserved
in all of Ireland.
During
excavations conducted by Dr. Lynch in 1986, she discovered
the remains of between sixteen and twenty men and women,
and one infant, which was said to have been a later
addition. Of the adults, all only survived to the age
of about 30 except for one who lived to be about 40.
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Kilfenora
Abbey dates back to the 11th century when a monastery
was founded here by St Fachtna. It first mentioned in
1055AD when it was burned by the O'Brien's, the ruling
clan of Clare. Little is known of the history of this
cathedral, which was built in 1189, but there are some
lovely stone carvings here. The chancel is decorated
with some 13th and 14th century effigies of bishops.
As well, there is a triple sedilia on the north wall.
There
are a number of crosses on this site that should be made
note of. One is a narrow high cross with interlacing,
or traditional Celtic weave. Nearby is the Doorty Cross
that shows three bishops and different types of crosiers
(staffs) and a double-headed bird. On the other side the
cross shows a horseman and a number of interlacings. Another
cross with interlacing is nearby, and in a field behind
the church is a tall cross with a crucifixion on one side
and interlacing on the other. A fifth cross was removed
to Killaloe in 1821.
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Kilfenora Cross
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Leahmaneh Castle
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The
original tower house of Leahmaneh Castle dates back
to about 1480AD. It's thought to have been built by
Turlogh Donn, one of the last independent kings of the
old kingdom of Ireland, which dominated the region at
that time. "Leahmaneh" is thought to be derived
from the Irish of leim an eich, which means "the
horse's leap", or from lien an fheidh, which means
"the deer's leap".
In
1548, Turlogh Donn's son, Murrough, surrendered this house
to Henry
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VIII.
Henry, in turn, made Murrough the first Earl of Thomond
and Baron Inchiquin.
What
stands in ruin today includes the manor house built in
1648 by one of the more influential owners, Maire Rua
O'Brien, or "Red Mary", known for her red hair.
The multi-gabled manor house was very modern for its time,
as this style of house didn't come into vogue until nearly
fifty years later.
The
O'Brien's ruled most of Clare for several hundred years
and occupied many of the biggest castles, such as Dromoland
and Bunratty.
Maire
Rua and her family had only a few peaceful years in Leahmaneh
Castle though. In January 1649 King Charles I was executed
in London and Oliver Cromwell declared himself "Lord
Protector". His first and most well known mission
was to subdue Ireland and convert her Catholic heathens
to his Puritanistic rule. In 1651, Lord Conor O'Brien
was felled by Cromwell's army, thus beginning the downfall
of North Clare's seat of leadership. Conor's and Maire's
son, Donagh, was the last of the O'Brien's to occupy the
house, having moved to another family home of Dromoland
Castle in Newmarket-On-Fergus, which is south of Ennis.
There were other occupants but the house finally fell
into ruin at the end of the 18th century.
The finest
of the fireplaces was moved off site to the Old Ground Hotel
in Ennis, and in 1902 the main gateway was moved to Dromoland
Castle. |
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Kilmacduagh
Monastery is tucked away in the quiet countryside near
the market town of Gort and set against the backdrop of
the Burren Mountains. Kilmacduagh's oldest buildings date
back to the 11th century, but the site as a whole was
founded in the 7th century by St. Colman Mac Duagh (Colman,
son of Duagh) and include five churches, a round tower
and abbot's house are all that remain of this once very
prosperous settlement.
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Kilmacduagh Monastery
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A
King of Connaught, father to King Guaire the Generous
(of Dunguaire Castle), had heard the prophecy of a child
who would outstrip the Kings. Colman was that child, so
the King sent two henchmen to kill Colman's mother, Rhinach,
while Colman was still in her womb. A stone was tied around
Rhinach's neck and she was thrown into Kiltart River,
near Gort. Legend has it that the rock floated and carried
Rhinach and her baby to safety. After his birth, Colman
was hidden away for many years and prepared for his monastic
life and the priesthood.
Rhinach's
stone reputedly rests on the inside windowsill of the
ruined church in Kiltartan near Coole Park, the rope marks
still evident!
One day, many years later, King Guaire discovered his
cousin Colman living in the wilds of the Burren. To make
amends for what his father had done, Guaire gave land
to Colman build his monastery. Colman accepted the gift
and set about to choose the perfect spot. It wasn't until
one day as he was riding that his girdle (belt accidentally
fell to the ground that Colman made his choice.
Centuries
later, the girdle was still in the hands of the O'Shaughnessy's
and O'Heyne's, as was Colman's crozier, which is not on
display in the National Museum of Ireland on Kildare Street
in Dublin City. Unfortunately, the girdle's whereabouts
are unknown today as it disappeared during the Battle
of the Boyne where the O'Shaughnessy's had taken it into
battle with them. This girdle was studded with precious
gems and was said to hold unexplained powers. It was said
that no matter how slim, the girdle would not go around
an unchaste waist.
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Bunratty Castle
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Lord
Gort bought Bunratty Castle in the 1950's in complete
ruin. He went by historical documents and rebuilt the
castle to what he imagined it looked like back in the
15th century when it was originally built. In the last
decade he added the Folk Park that you see today.
The
castle has had few residents but its most important
were the O'Brien's, the Earls of Thomond, from 1500
until 1624, when the so-called "Great Earl"
died. The castle was finally abandon in the last century
and left to ruin until Lord Gort saw its potential.
Bunratty
Castle's most distinguishable feature is its double
façade. Twin arches, front and back, were meant
to confuse would be invaders looking for the front door,
thus giving the castle guard more time to prepare for
battle.
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The
Folk Park was meticulously created by salvaging many cottages
and village shop ruins from around Ireland. Many cottages
are real stores or models and some allow you to buy some
of what is on display. Others have local country folks
in them telling you about their trade and how they benefited
the castle and its lord.
The
Park is made up of three general areas, village, town
and countryside.
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Bunratty Folk Park - Town
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The
village end of the park is near the castle and is where
you'll find the thatch cottages. The fisherman's cottage
has a man inside showing you how to make fishing nets.
The blacksmith shows you how to make nails and other metal
items. The weavers cottage offers fine woven goods and
the shopkeeper will show you how the loom works. The farmhouse
has a woman inside baking traditional soda bread and churning
her own butter (stick around and she'll offer you a taste).
And the farmhouse garage has the farmer in it telling
you about farming
unless he's inside the farmhouse
scoffing some bread and butter for his tea!
The
town end of the park has several period buildings that
are open for trade as well. The camera store will take
an old fashioned photo of you, the confectionery will
cater to your sweet tooth and the restaurant will serve
you wonderful traditional fare. There is also a working
post office where you can mail your post cards and a pub
to quench your thirst.
The
countryside section includes a millhouse, Georgian country
house, church, petting zoo, various pens and meandering
paths.
Park
employees dress in period costume and wander the streets
demonstrating traditional crafts.
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Coole House
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Coole
House was more than just a Georgian era country home to
Lady Augusta Gregory. After the death of her beloved husband,
one Augusta mourned for the rest of her life, the estate
became the center for the Irish Literary Revival in the
early 20th century. The estate saw visits from many of
Ireland's preeminent writers and artists of the time,
such as Sean O'Casey, John Millington Synge, first President
of Ireland Douglas Hyde and WB Yeats, who were all members
of this revival. It was Yeats who eventually bought Ballylee
Castle to use as a summer retreat. And it was with Yeats
that Augusta founded the Abbey Theatre in Dublin in 1903.
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While
Coole House was destroyed in the 1950's, something the
Irish state has since regretted, the park still exists
as part of the National Parks system and is open to the
public as Coole Park. Visitors can stroll through the
estate, which retains much of the same atmosphere as it
did during Lady Gregory's time.
First
time visitors are encouraged to start at the interpretive
center (located at the entrance to the estate in the old
stables) where a guided tour will lead you through the
history of the estate and the importance of the ILR. Examples
of the works of these famous visitors are on display.
Some
of the areas of the estate worth visiting include the
woodland walks, Coole Lake, the walled garden, the site
of the original house, and of course the interpretive
center which is located in the restored stable area.
Visitors
can follow in the footsteps of some of Ireland's preeminent
personalities as they wind their way to the famous Autograph
Tree, a giant Copper Beech in the walled garden, and stand
in the same spot as Shaw, Yeats, Synge and O'Casey stood
while scrawling their initials. The tree is now surrounded
by a 10 foot high iron railing topped with barbed wire
for the preservation of this part of our Irish heritage.
Even though some of these initials are 100 years old or
more many can still be seen.
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Thoor
Ballylee began its life as a de Burgo (Burke) built fortified
tower on the banks of the Cloon River near the market
town of Gort. In 1902 the castle became part of the nearby
Coole Estate, home to Lady Augusta Gregory.
Augusta's
closest friend was William Butler Yeats, who founded
the Irish Literary Revival. Because of their close relationship,
it was rumored that Yeats was having an affair with
the widow Gregory. However, Yeats married Georgie Hyde-Lee
in 1916, and after purchasing the tower in that same
year from Augusta, Yeats had a dedication placard mounted
to the castle, which survives today. It reads -
I,
the poet William Yeats,
With old mill boards and sea-green slates,
And smithy work from the Gort forge,
Restored this tower for my wife George;
And
may these characters remain
When all is ruin once again.
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Thoor Ballylee
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Yeats
loved the Irish language and in support of his affinity
for the Irish language he renamed the castle Túr
Ballylee (pronounced toor), which was Anglicized later
as Thoor Ballylee, often simply been called The Tower
by family and friends.
The
Yeats' would spend their summers between 1916 and 1923
in this tower, where he found most of his later inspiration.
The Tower, as he referred to it, was the inspiration behind
man of his poems.
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